2214 Wavell St. Houston TX, 77088 – Selecting a New Water Heater
When selecting a new water heater for your home, choose a water heating system that provides enough hot water for your family and is also energy efficient to save you money. Consider the different types of water heaters available and determining the right size and fuel source for your home. Check out the Energy Saver 101: Water Heating infographic to learn more about the different types of water heaters and how to select the right model for your home.
Types of Water Heaters
It’s a good idea to know the different types of water heaters available before you purchase one:
- Conventional storage water heaters offer a ready reservoir (storage tank) of hot water which is adequate for everyday use. However, there are some instances, such as when more than one use for hot water is occurring or when there are guests in the home, increasing the requirements for hot water.
- Tankless or demand-type water heaters heat water directly without the use of a storage tank. This type of water heater is designed to provide an adequate supply of hot water without running out when adequately sized.
- Heat pump water heaters move heat from one place to another instead of generating heat directly for providing hot water, resulting in high efficiencies and significant cost savings.
- Solar water heaters use the sun’s heat to provide hot water and also save money on energy bills.
- Tankless coil and indirect water heaters use a home’s space heating system to heat water.
Selection Criteria
When selecting the best type and model of water heater for your home, consider the following:
- Fuel type, availability and cost. The fuel type or energy source you use for water heating will not only affect the water heater’s annual operation costs but also its size and energy efficiency. See below for more on selecting fuel types.
- Size. To provide your household with adequate hot water and maximize efficiency, you need a properly sized water heater. Visit the pages on different types of water heaters (linked above) for more on sizing.
- Energy efficiency. To maximize energy and cost savings, check the energy efficiency of a water heater before you purchase it. Visit the pages on different types of water heaters (linked above) for more on estimating energy efficiency.
- Costs. Before you purchase a water heater, it’s also a good idea to estimate the annual operating costs and compare those costs with other less or more energy-efficient models. Visit the pages on different types of water heaters (linked above) for more on estimating costs.
Also be sure to examine ways to reduce your hot water use, such as washing clothes in cold water. You may also want to explore other options such as drain-water heat recovery to save money on your water heating bill.
Fuel Types, Availability and Costs for Water Heating
When selecting a new water heater, it’s important to consider what fuel type or energy source you will use, including its availability and cost. The fuel used by a water heating system will not only affect annual operation costs but also the water heater’s size and energy efficiency.
Exploring Water Heater Options by Fuel Type
Fuel type and its availability in your area may narrow your water heater choices. The following is a list of water heater options by fuel or energy source:
- Electricity
Widely available in the United States for conventional storage, tankless or demand-type, and heat pump water heaters. It also can be used with combination water and space heating systems, which include tankless coil and indirect water heaters.
- Fuel oil
Available in some areas of the United States to fuel conventional storage water heaters, and indirect combination water and space heating systems.
- Geothermal energy
Available throughout the United States to those who will have or already have a geothermal heat pump system installed in their homes for space heating and cooling. See Heat Pump Water Heaters for more information.
- Natural gas
Available in many areas of the United States to fuel conventional storage and demand (tankless or instantaneous) water heaters, as well as combination water and space heating systems, which include tankless coil and indirect water heaters.
- Propane
Available in many areas of the United States to fuel conventional storage and demand (tankless or instantaneous) water heaters, as well as indirect combination water and space heating systems.
- Solar energy
Available throughout the United States — most abundantly in the Southwest — for solar water heaters.
Comparing Fuel Costs and Water Heater Types
If you have more than one fuel type available in your area, it’s a good idea to compare fuel costs, especially if you’re building a new home. Even if you’re replacing a water heater, you may find that you’ll save more money in the long run if you use a different fuel or energy source. However, if you are converting from one fuel type to another, there are other cost considerations, such as adding a breaker or running a gas line to the water heater and venting it outside. Contact your utility for current fuel costs or rates.
The type of water heater you choose will also affect your water heating costs. One type of water heater may use a fuel type more efficiently than another type of water heater. For example, an electric heat pump water heater typically is more energy efficient than an electric conventional storage water heater. Also, an electric heat pump water heater might have lower energy costs than a gas-fired conventional storage water heater, even though local natural gas costs might be lower than the electricity rates.
8914 Sandra St. Houston TX, 77016 – Reduce Hot Water Use for Energy Savings
Faucets and appliances can use a lot of hot water, which costs you money. You can lower your water heating costs by using and wasting less hot water in your home. Water heating is the second largest energy expense in your home, accounting for about 18% of your utility bill. To conserve hot water, you can fix leaks, install low-flow fixtures, insulate accessible hot water lines, and purchase an ENERGY STAR certified dishwasher and clothes washer.
Average Hot Water Usage
ACTIVITY | GALLONS PER USE |
---|---|
Clothes Washer | 25 |
Shower | 10 |
Dishwasher | 6 |
Kitchen faucet flow | 2 per minute |
Bathroom faucet flow | 2 per minute |
Total daily average | 64 |
Fix Leaks
You can significantly reduce hot water use by simply repairing leaks in fixtures — for instance, faucets and showerheads — or pipes. A leak of one drip per second wastes 1,661 gallons of water and can cost up to $35 per year. If your water heater tank is leaking, you will need to replace it with a new water heater.
Install Low-Flow Fixtures
Federal regulations mandate that new showerhead flow rates can’t exceed more than 2.5 gallons per minute (gpm) at a water pressure of 80 pounds per square inch (psi). New faucet flow rates can’t exceed 2.5 gpm at 80 psi or 2.2 gpm at 60 psi. You can purchase some quality, low-flow fixtures for around $10 to $20 a piece and achieve water savings of 25%–60%. When purchasing new showerheads and faucets, look for WaterSense labeled products. WaterSense labeled products are backed by independent, third–party certification and meet specifications set by the U.S. EPA for water efficiency and performance.
Showerheads
For maximum water efficiency, select a WaterSense labeled shower head with a flow rate of less than 2.0 gpm. There are two basic types of low-flow showerheads: aerating and laminar-flow. Aerating showerheads mix air with water, forming a misty spray. Laminar-flow showerheads form individual streams of water. If you live in a humid climate, you might want to use a laminar-flow showerhead because it won’t create as much steam and moisture as an aerating one.
Before 1992, some showerheads had flow rates as high as 5.5 gpm. Therefore, if you have fixtures that pre-date 1992, you might want to replace them if you’re not sure of their flow rates. Here’s a quick test to determine whether you should replace a showerhead:
- Place a bucket — marked in gallon increments — under your shower head.
- Turn on the shower at the normal water pressure you use.
- Time how many seconds it takes to fill the bucket to the 1-gallon (3.8 liter) mark.
If it takes less than 20 seconds to reach the 1-gallon mark, you could benefit from a low-flow shower head.
Faucets
The aerator — the screw-on tip of the faucet — ultimately determines the maximum flow rate of a faucet. Typically, new kitchen faucets come equipped with aerators that restrict flow rates to 2.2 gpm, while new bathroom faucets have ones that restrict flow rates from 1.5 to 0.5 gpm.
Aerators are inexpensive to replace, and they can be one of the most cost-effective water conservation measures. For maximum water efficiency, purchase aerators that have flow rates of no more than 1.0 gpm. Some aerators even come with shut-off valves that allow you to stop the flow of water without affecting the temperature. When replacing an aerator, bring the one you’re replacing to the store with you to ensure a proper fit.
Purchase Energy-Efficient Dishwashers and Clothes Washers
The biggest cost of washing dishes and clothes comes from the energy required to heat the water. You’ll significantly reduce your energy costs if you purchase and use an ENERGY STAR certified dishwasher and clothes washer.
Dishwashers
It’s commonly assumed that washing dishes by hand saves hot water. However, washing dishes by hand several times a day can use significantly more water and cost more than operating an energy-efficient dishwasher. You can consume less energy with an energy-efficient dishwasher when properly used and when only operating it with full loads.
When purchasing a new dishwasher, look for the ENERGY STAR label, and check the Energy Guide label to see how much energy it uses. Dishwashers fall into one of two categories: compact capacity and standard capacity. Although compact capacity dishwashers may appear to be more energy efficient on the Energy Guide Label, they hold fewer dishes, which may force you to use it more frequently. In this case, your energy costs could be higher than with a standard-capacity dishwasher.
One feature that makes a dishwasher more energy efficient is a booster heater. A booster heater increases the temperature of the water entering the dishwasher to the 140ºF recommended for cleaning. Some dishwashers have built-in boosters, while others require manual selection before the wash cycle begins. Some also only activate the booster during the heavy-duty cycle. Dishwashers with booster heaters typically cost more, but they pay for themselves with energy savings in about 1 year if you also lower the water temperature on your water heater.
Another dishwasher feature that reduces hot water use is the availability of cycle selections. Shorter cycles require less water, thereby reducing energy costs.
If you want to ensure that your new dishwasher is energy efficient, purchase one with an ENERGY STAR® label.
Clothes Washer
Unlike dishwashers, clothes washers don’t require a minimum temperature for optimum cleaning. Therefore, to reduce energy costs, you can use either cold or warm water for most laundry loads. Cold water is always sufficient for rinsing.
Inefficient clothes washers can cost three times as much to operate than energy-efficient ones. Select a new machine that allows you to adjust the water temperature and levels for different loads. Efficient clothes washers spin-dry your clothes more effectively too, saving energy when drying as well. Also, front-loading machines use less water and, consequently, less energy than top loaders.
Small-capacity clothes washers often have better Energy Guide label ratings. However, a reduced capacity might increase the number of loads you need to run, which could increase your energy costs.
When purchasing a new clothes washer, choose one with an ENERGY STAR label.
710 36th St. Galveston TX, 77550 – City of Galveston – Storm Windows
Storm Windows
Replacing single-pane windows with double-pane windows that have high-performance glass may be cost effective, but you could also consider installing low emissivity (low-e) storm windows. Installing interior or exterior energy-efficient storm windows that are rated by the Attachment Energy Rating Council (AERC) can produce similar savings but at about 1/3 of the cost. Storm windows can help reduce air movement into and out of existing windows, helping to improve comfort and reduce heating and cooling costs.
Low-E Storm Windows
While older storm windows were typically just clear glass, newer models are available with a low-e coating that reduces heat transmission through the window. Low-e storm windows are more insulating, reflecting heat back into the house into the winter, and can also help the home stay cooler during the summer, keeping the home more comfortable. Information on the energy efficiency of storm windows is available for all rated products through the AERC. You can find storm windows that have the ENERGY STAR label at energystar.gov .
Modern storm windows are not the same as the old seasonal storm windows that were removed for cleaning or to allow for entering or exiting. New low-e storm are designed to blend in with the existing architecture, are permanently mounted, and are available as fixed or operable models, such that you can maintain the operation of your existing window (e.g. single-hung storm window attaches over single-hung existing window).
Benefits of Low-e Storm Windows:
- Similar energy savings as full window replacement, but at about one-third the cost
- Aesthetically pleasing
- Operable
- Reduces drafts and increases comfort
- Reduces noise
- Reflect radiant heat 35% better than clear glass storm windows
- Act as an air sealing measure and can reduce overall home air leakage by 10% or more
Low-e exterior or interior storm windows can save you 10%–30% on heating and cooling costs, depending on the type of window already installed in the home.
Installation
When installing storm windows, ensure they have weatherstripping at all movable joints; are made of strong, durable materials; and have interlocking or overlapping joints. See our do-it-yourself home energy savings project for step-by-step instructions for installing low-e storm windows.
1109 Lone Star Dr. Houston TX, 77055 – City of Houston – Heat Pump Water Heaters
Most homeowners who have heat pumps use them to heat and cool their homes. But a heat pump also can be used to heat water — either as stand-alone water heating system, or as combination water heating and space conditioning system.
How They Work
Heat pump water heaters use electricity to move heat from one place to another instead of generating heat directly. Therefore, they can be two to three times more energy efficient than conventional electric resistance water heaters. To move the heat, heat pumps work like a refrigerator in reverse.
While a refrigerator pulls heat from inside a box and sends it into the surrounding room, a stand-alone air-source heat pump water heater pulls heat from the surrounding air and transfers it — at a higher temperature — to heat water in a storage tank. You can purchase a stand-alone heat pump water heating system as an integrated unit with a built-in water storage tank and back-up resistance heating elements. You can also retrofit a heat pump to work with an existing conventional storage water heater.
Heat pump water heaters require installation in locations that remain in the 40º–90ºF (4.4º–32.2ºC) range year-round and provide at least 1,000 cubic feet (28.3 cubic meters) of air space around the water heater. Air passing over the evaporator can be exhausted to the room or outdoors.
Heat pump water heaters will not operate efficiently in a cold space since they tend to cool the space they are in. Installing them in a space with excess heat, such as a furnace room, will increase their efficiency.
You can also install an air-source heat pump system that combines heating, cooling, and water heating. These combination systems pull their heat indoors from the outside air in the winter and from the inside air in the summer. Because they remove heat from the air, any type of air-source heat pump system works more efficiently in a warm climate.
Homeowners primarily install geothermal heat pumps — which draw heat from the ground during the winter and from the indoor air during the summer — for heating and cooling their homes. For water heating, you can add a desuperheater to a geothermal heat pump system. A desuperheater is a small, auxiliary heat exchanger that uses superheated gases from the heat pump’s compressor to heat water. This hot water then circulates through a pipe to the storage water heater tank in the house.
Desuperheaters are also available for tankless or demand-type water heaters. In the summer, the desuperheater uses the excess heat that would otherwise be expelled to the ground. With frequent operation during the summer, the geothermal heat pump may provide the majority of your hot water needs.
During the fall, winter, and spring — when the desuperheater isn’t producing as much excess heat — you’ll need to rely more on your storage or demand water heater. Some manufacturers also offer triple-function geothermal heat pump systems, which provide heating, cooling, and hot water. They use a separate heat exchanger to meet all of a household’s hot water needs.
2408 Dewalt St. Houston TX, 77088 – City of Houston – Foundation Moisture Control
Foundation Moisture Control
The potential for moisture problems exists anywhere building components are below grade, whether you have a basement, crawlspace, or slab-on-grade foundation. To create an energy-efficient and comfortable living space in your basement, you will need to insulate as well as properly control moisture.
Most basement water leakage results from water flowing through holes, cracks, and other discontinuities into the home’s basement walls or water wicking into the cracks and pores of porous building materials, such as masonry blocks, concrete, or wood. These tiny cracks and pores can absorb water in any direction — even upward.
The best approaches for preventing these problems will depend on your local climate, type of insulation, and style of construction. If you need to correct moisture problems in your existing home, consult a qualified builder, basement designer, and/or insulation contractor in your area for specific basement moisture control measures tailored to your climate, type of insulation, and construction style.
If you’re building a new home, pay particular attention to how water will be managed around the foundation. The following guidelines will apply in most circumstances:
- Keep all untreated wood materials away from earth contact.
- Install well-designed guttering and downspouts connected to a drainage system that diverts rainwater completely away from the house.
- Slope the earth away from all sides of the house for at least 5 feet at a minimum 5% grade (3 inches in 5 feet). Establish drainage swales to direct rainwater around and away from the house.
- Add a gasket under the sill plate to provide air sealing.
- Install a protective membrane, such as rubberized roofing or ice-dam protection materials, between the foundation and the sill plate to serve as a capillary break and reduce wicking of water up from the masonry foundation wall. This membrane can also serve as a termite shield on top of foam board insulation.
- Damp-proof all below-grade portions of the foundation wall and footing to prevent the wall from absorbing ground moisture by capillary action.
- Place a continuous drainage plane over the damp-proofing or exterior insulation to channel water to the foundation drain and relieve hydrostatic pressure. Drainage plane materials include special drainage mats, high-density fiberglass insulation products, and washed gravel. All drainage planes should be protected with a filter fabric to prevent dirt from clogging the intentional gaps in the drainage material.
- Install a foundation drain directly below the drainage plane and beside (not on top of) the footing. This prevents water from flowing against the seam between the footing and the foundation wall. Surround a perforated 4-inch plastic drainpipe with gravel and wrap both with filter fabric.
- Underneath the basement or on-grade slab floor, install a capillary break and vapor diffusion retarder, consisting of a layer of 6- to 10-mil polyethylene over at least 4 inches of gravel.
If you your new or existing home has a crawlspace, you can also Install a 6-mil polyethylene vapor diffusion barrier across the crawlspace floor to prevent soil moisture from migrating into the crawlspace. Overlap all seams by 12 inches and tape them and seal the polyethylene 6 inches up the crawlspace walls. As an option, pour two inches (51 mm) of concrete over the vapor barrier to protect the polyethylene from damage.
Walls
It is a myth that installing vapor barriers is the most important step for controlling moisture in walls. Vapor barriers only retard moisture due to diffusion, while most moisture enters walls either through fluid capillary action or as water vapor through air leaks.
Most climates require these moisture control steps:
- Install a polyethylene ground cover on the earth floor of houses with crawlspaces.
- Slope the ground away from the foundations of all houses.
- Install a continuous vapor barrier (if required in your climate) with a perm rating of less than one.
Place a termite shield, sill gaskets, or other vapor-impermeable membrane on the top of the foundation wall to prevent moisture from wicking into the framed wall from the concrete foundation wall by capillary action.
Rain — especially wind-driven rain — can also cause moisture problems in walls. Rain leaks through exterior walls are usually a result of improper installation of:
- Siding materials.
- Poor quality flashing.
- Weatherstripping or caulking around joints in the building exterior (such as windows, doors, and bottom plates).
To protect against rain penetration, you should also create a drainage plane within the wall system of your home.
2011 Parkdale Dr. Kingwood TX, 77339 – Moisture Control
Controlling moisture can make your home more energy-efficient, less costly to heat and cool, more comfortable, and prevent mold growth.
Properly controlling moisture in your home will improve the effectiveness of your air sealing and insulation efforts, and these efforts in turn will help control moisture. The best strategies for controlling moisture in your home depend on your climate and how your home is constructed. Proper ventilation should also be part of your efforts to control moisture.
Before you decide on a moisture control strategy, it helps to understand that moisture or water vapor moves in and out of a home in a variety of ways including:
- With air movement
- By diffusion through materials
- By heat transfer
- Creating moisture within the home (cooking, showering, etc.),
Of these, air movement accounts for more than 98% of all water vapor movement in building cavities. Air naturally moves from high-pressure areas to lower pressure areas by the easiest path available — generally through any available hole or crack in the building envelope. Moisture transfer by air currents happens quickly, and carefully and permanently air sealing any unintended paths for air movement in and out of the house is a very effective way to control moisture.
The other two driving forces — diffusion through materials and heat transfer — are much slower processes. Most common building materials slow moisture diffusion to a large degree, although they never stop it completely. Insulation also helps reduce heat transfer or flow.
The laws of physics govern how moist air reacts in various temperature conditions. The temperature and moisture concentration at which water vapor begins to condense is called the “dew point.” Relative humidity (RH) refers to the amount of moisture contained in a quantity of air compared to the maximum amount of moisture the air could hold at the same temperature. The ability of air to hold water vapor increases as it warms and decreases as it cools. Once air has reached its dew point, the moisture that the air can no longer hold condenses on the first cold surface it encounters. If this surface is within an exterior wall cavity, the result is wet insulation and framing.
In addition to air movement, you also can control temperature and moisture content. Insulation reduces heat transfer or flow, so it also moderates the effect of temperature across the building envelope cavity. In most U.S. climates, properly installed vapor diffusion retarders can be used to reduce the amount of moisture transfer. Except in deliberately ventilated spaces such as attics, insulation and vapor diffusion retarders work together to reduce the opportunity for condensation in a house’s ceilings, walls, and floors.
Moisture can cause problems in attics, various types of foundations, and walls, and the solutions to those problems vary by climate.
1441 Bluewing Teal Ct. Galveston TX, 77554 – City of Galveston – Caulking: Sealing Your Home
Caulk is a flexible material used to seal air leaks through cracks, gaps, or joints less than 1-quarter-inch wide between stationary building components and materials. For components that move — doors and operable windows, for example — weatherstripping is the appropriate material. This will help in sealing your home.
Before caulking air leaks in an existing home, you will need to detect the leaks and assess your ventilation needs to ensure adequate indoor air quality. In addition to sealing air leaks, caulking can also prevent water damage inside and outside of the home when applied around faucets, ceiling fixtures, water pipes, drains, bathtubs, and other plumbing fixtures.
Selecting Caulking
Most caulking compounds come in disposable cartridges that fit in half-barrel caulking guns (if possible, purchase one with an automatic release). Some pressurized cartridges do not require caulking guns.
When deciding how much caulking to purchase, consider that you’ll probably need a half-cartridge per window or door and four cartridges for the foundation sill of an average home. Caulking compounds can also be found in aerosol cans, squeeze tubes, and ropes for small jobs or special applications.
Caulking compounds vary in strength, properties, and prices. Water-based caulk can be cleaned with water, while solvent-based compounds require a solvent for cleanup.
Applying Caulking to Seal Your Home
Although not a high-tech operation, caulking can be tricky. Read and follow the instructions on the compound cartridge, and remember these tips:
- For good adhesion, clean all areas to be caulked. Remove any old caulk and paint, using a putty knife, large screwdriver, stiff brush, or special solvent. Make sure the area is dry so you don’t seal in moisture.
- Apply caulk to all joints in a window frame and the joint between the frame and the wall.
- Hold the gun at a consistent angle. Forty-five degrees is best for getting deep into the crack. You know you’ve got the right angle when the caulk is immediately forced into the crack as it comes out of the tube.
- Caulk in one straight continuous stream, if possible. Avoid stops and starts.
- Send caulk to the bottom of an opening to avoid bubbles.
- Make sure the caulk sticks to both sides of a crack or seam.
- Release the trigger before pulling the gun away to avoid applying too much caulking compound. A caulking gun with an automatic release makes this much easier.
- If caulk oozes out of a crack, use a putty knife to push it back in.
- Don’t skimp. If the caulk shrinks, reapply it to form a smooth bead that will seal the crack completely.
The best time to apply caulk is during dry weather when the outdoor temperature is above 45°F (7.2°C). Low humidity is important during application to prevent cracks from swelling with moisture. Warm temperatures are also necessary so the caulk will set properly and adhere to the surfaces.
Home Ready Inspections can help with preforming Duct Leakage & HVAC Blower Door Tests to assess how much leakage there is. Schedule your tests today by calling 832-661-6154
2208 Des Chaumes Houston TX, 77026 – City of Houston – Duct Leakage Test
Tips for Sealing Air Leaks
- Hire an energy assessor or other weatherization expert to test your home for air tightness.
- Caulk and weatherstrip doors and windows that leak air.
- Caulk and seal air leaks where plumbing, ducting, or electrical wiring comes through walls, floors, ceilings, and soffits over cabinets.
- Install foam gaskets behind outlet and switch plates on walls.
- Inspect dirty spots on any visual insulation for air leaks and mold. Seal leaks with low-expansion spray foam made for this purpose and install house flashing if needed.
- Look for dirty spots on your ceiling paint and carpet, which may indicate air leaks at interior wall/ceiling joints and wall/floor joists, and caulk them.
- Replace single-pane windows with more efficient double-pane low- emissivity windows. See the Windows section for more information.
- Use foam sealant on larger gaps around windows, baseboards, and other places where air may leak out.
- Check your dryer vent to be sure it is not blocked. This will save energy and may prevent a fire.
- Replace exterior door bottoms and thresholds with ones that have pliable sealing gaskets.
- Keep the fireplace flue damper tightly closed when not in use.
- Seal air leaks around fireplace chimneys, furnaces, and gas-fired water heater vents with fire-resistant materials such as sheet metal or sheetrock and furnace cement caulk.
Call us today! 8326616154
5904 Gardendale Dr. Unit D Houston TX, 77092
No matter what kind of heating system you have in your house, you can save money and increase your comfort by properly maintaining and upgrading your equipment. But remember, an energy-efficient furnace alone will not have as great an impact on your energy bills as using the whole-house approach. By combining proper equipment maintenance and upgrades with recommended insulation, air sealing, and thermostat settings, you can save about 30% on your energy bill while reducing environmental emissions.
Heating Tips
- Set your programmable thermostat as low as is comfortable in the winter and lower the setpoint when you’re sleeping or away from home.
- Clean or replace filters on furnaces once a month or as recommended.
- Clean warm-air registers, baseboard heaters, and radiators as needed; make sure they’re not blocked by furniture, carpeting, or drapes.
- Eliminate trapped air from hot-water radiators once or twice a season; if unsure about how to perform this task, contact a professional.
- Place heat-resistant radiator reflectors between exterior walls and the radiators.
- Turn off kitchen, bath, and other exhaust fans within 20 minutes after you are done cooking or bathing; when replacing exhaust fans, consider installing high-efficiency, low-noise models.
- During winter, keep the draperies and shades on your south-facing windows open during the day to allow the sunlight to enter your home and closed at night to reduce the chill you may feel from cold windows.
Select energy-efficient products when you buy new heating equipment. Your contractor should be able to give you energy fact sheets for different types, models, and designs to help you compare energy usage. See the efficiency standards for information on minimum ratings, and look for the ENERGY STAR when purchasing new products.
2103 Surry Oaks Dr. New Caney TX, 77007 – Home Cooling Systems
Your first thought for cooling may be air conditioning, there are many alternatives that provide cooling with less energy use. A combination of proper insulation, energy-efficient windows and doors, daylighting, shading, and ventilation will usually keep homes cool with a minimum of energy use in all but the hottest climates. Although ventilation should be avoided in hot, humid climates, other approaches can significantly reduce the need to use air conditioning. Before choosing a cooling system, you may want to familiarize yourself with the principles of heating and cooling.
Cooling Tips
- Set your programmable thermostat as high as is comfortable in the summer, and raise the setpoint when you’re sleeping or away from home.
- Clean or replace filters on air conditioners once a month or as recommended.
- Turn off kitchen, bath, and other exhaust fans within 20 minutes after you are done cooking or bathing; when replacing exhaust fans, consider installing high-efficiency, low-noise models.
- During summer, keep the window coverings closed during the day to block the sun’s heat.
- Select energy-efficient products when you buy new cooling equipment. Your contractor should be able to give you energy fact sheets for different types, models, and designs to help you compare energy usage. See the efficiency standards for information on minimum ratings, and look for the ENERGY STAR when purchasing new products.
8023 Canyon St. Houston TX, 77051 – Weatherstripping- City of Houston
Choosing Weatherstripping
Choose a type of weatherstripping that will withstand the friction, weather, temperature changes, and wear and tear associated with its location. For example, when applied to a door bottom or threshold, weatherstripping could drag on carpet or erode as a result of foot traffic. Weatherstripping in a window sash must accommodate the sliding of panes — up and down, sideways, or out. The weatherstripping you choose should seal well when the door or window is closed but allow it to open freely.
Choose a product for each specific location. Felt and open-cell foams tend to be inexpensive, susceptible to weather, visible, and inefficient at blocking airflow. However, the ease of applying these materials may make them valuable in low-traffic areas. Vinyl, which is slightly more expensive, holds up well and resists moisture. Metals (bronze, copper, stainless steel, and aluminum) last for years and are affordable. Metal weatherstripping can also provide a nice touch to older homes where vinyl might seem out of place.
You can use more than one type of weatherstripping to seal an irregularly shaped space. Also take durability into account when comparing costs.
Weatherstripping supplies and techniques range from simple to the technical. Consult the instructions on the weatherstripping package.
Here are a few basic guidelines:
- Weatherstripping should be applied to clean, dry surfaces in temperatures above 20°F (-7° C).
- Measure the area to be weatherstripped twice before making a cut.
- Apply weatherstripping snugly against both surfaces. The material should compress when the window or door is shut.
When weatherstripping doors:
- Choose the appropriate door sweeps and thresholds for the bottom of the doors.
- Weatherstrip the entire door jamb.
- Apply one continuous strip along each side.
- Make sure the weatherstripping meets tightly at the corners.
- Use a thickness that causes the weatherstripping to press tightly between the door and the door jamb when the door closes without making it difficult to shut.
For air sealing windows, apply weatherstripping between the sash and the frame. The weatherstripping shouldn’t interfere with the operation of the window.
1835 Flowing Springs Trl Houston TX, 77080 – Insulation
How Insulation Works
To understand how insulation works it helps to understand heat flow, which involves three basic mechanisms — conduction, convection, and radiation. Conduction is the way heat moves through materials, such as when a spoon placed in a hot cup of coffee conducts heat through its handle to your hand. Convection is the way heat circulates through liquids and gases, and is why lighter, warmer air rises, and cooler, denser air sinks in your home. Radiant heat travels in a straight line and heats anything solid in its path that absorbs its energy.
Most common insulation materials work by slowing conductive heat flow and convective heat flow. Radiant barriers and reflective insulation systems work by reducing radiant heat gain. To be effective, the reflective surface must be in contact with an air space.
Regardless of the mechanism, heat flows from warmer to cooler areas until there is no longer a temperature difference. In your home, this means that in winter, heat flows directly from all heated living spaces to adjacent unheated attics, garages, basements, and especially to the outdoors. Heat flow can also move indirectly through interior ceilings, walls, and floors–wherever there is a difference in temperature. During the cooling season, heat flows from the outdoors to the interior of a house.
To maintain comfort, the heat lost in the winter must be replaced by your heating system and the heat gained in the summer must be removed by your cooling system. Properly insulating your home will decrease this heat flow by providing an effective resistance to the flow of heat.
Insulation Materials
Insulation materials run the gamut from bulky fiber materials such as fiberglass, rockwool, cellulose, and natural fibers to rigid foam boards to sleek foils. Bulky materials resist conductive heat flow in a building cavity. Rigid foam boards trap air or another gas in their cells to resist conductive heat flow. Highly reflective foils in radiant barriers and reflective insulation systems reflect radiant heat away from living spaces, making them particularly useful in cooling climates. Other less common materials such as cementitious and phenolic foams and perlite are also available.
Call us today to schedule with a professional 832-661-6154
1618 Toddville Rd Seabrook TX, 77586 – 3 Basic Heating and Cooling Ventilation Options – Seabrook Texas
Ventilation Options
There are 3 basic ventilation options —natural ventilation, spot ventilation, and whole-house ventilation.
Natural Ventilation
Natural ventilation is the uncontrolled air movement in and out of the cracks and small holes in a home. In the past, this air leakage usually diluted air pollutants enough to maintain adequate indoor air quality. Today, we are sealing those cracks and holes to make our homes more energy-efficient, and after a home is properly air sealed, ventilation is necessary to maintain a healthy and comfortable indoor environment. Opening windows and doors also provides natural ventilation, but many people keep their homes closed up because they use central heating and cooling systems year-round.
Natural ventilation is unpredictable and uncontrollable—you can’t rely on it to ventilate a house uniformly. Natural ventilation depends on a home’s airtightness, outdoor temperatures, wind, and other factors. During mild weather, some homes may lack sufficient natural ventilation for pollutant removal. During windy or extreme weather, a home that hasn’t been air sealed properly will be drafty, uncomfortable, and expensive to heat and cool.
Spot Ventilation
Spot ventilation can improve the effectiveness of natural and whole-house ventilation by removing indoor air pollution and/or moisture at its source. Spot ventilation includes the use of localized exhaust fans, such as those used above kitchen ranges and in bathrooms. ASHRAE recommends intermittent or continuous ventilation rates for bathrooms of 50 or 20 cubic feet per minute and kitchens of 100 or 25 cubic feet per minute, respectively.
Whole-House Ventilation
The decision to use whole-house ventilation is typically motivated by concerns that natural ventilation won’t provide adequate air quality, even with source control by spot ventilation. Whole-house ventilation systems provide controlled, uniform ventilation throughout a house. These systems use one or more fans and duct systems to exhaust stale air and/or supply fresh air to the house.
There are four types of systems:
- Exhaust ventilation systems work by depressurizing the building and are relatively simple and inexpensive to install.
- Supply ventilation systems work by pressurizing the building and are also relatively simple and inexpensive to install.
- Balanced ventilation systems, if properly designed and installed, neither pressurize nor depressurize a house. Rather, they introduce and exhaust approximately equal quantities of fresh outside air and polluted inside air.
- Energy recovery ventilation systems provide controlled ventilation while minimizing energy loss. They reduce the costs of heating ventilated air in the winter by transferring heat from the warm inside air being exhausted to the fresh (but cold) supply air. In the summer, the inside air cools the warmer supply air to reduce ventilation cooling costs. Compare whole-house ventilation systems to determine which is right for your home.
Ventilation for cooling is the least expensive and most energy-efficient way to cool buildings. Ventilation works best when combined with techniques to avoid heat buildup in your home. In some climates, natural ventilation is sufficient to keep the house comfortable, although it usually needs to be supplemented with spot ventilation, ceiling fans, window fans, and—in larger homes—whole-house fans.
Ventilation is not an effective cooling strategy in hot, humid climates where temperature swings between day and night are small. In these climates, however, natural ventilation of your attic (often required by building codes) will help to reduce your use of air conditioning, and attic fans may also help keep cooling costs down.
2412 Avenue P Galveston TX, 77554 – City of Galveston Blower Door Test
These are some reasons for establishing the proper building tightness:
- Reducing energy consumption from excess air leakage
- Avoiding moisture condensation problems
- Avoiding uncomfortable drafts caused by cold or warm air leaking in from outside
- Controlling outdoor contaminants, pests, and odors from entering your home.
- Determining proper sizing and airflow requirements of heating and cooling equipment.
- Determining whether mechanical ventilation is needed to provide acceptable fresh air and maintain indoor air quality in your home.
Blower Doors: What Are They and How Do They Work?
A blower door is a powerful fan that a trained energy professional temporarily mounts into the frame of an exterior doorway in your home. After calibrating the device, the fan pulls air out of the house, lowering the air pressure inside. The higher outside air pressure then flows in through all unsealed gaps, cracks and openings such as gaps, cracks, or wiring penetrations. If conditions do not allow for lowering the pressure in the home, the fan may also be operated in reverse, with air pressure increased inside the home.
While the blower test is being conducted, the analyst may use an infrared camera to look at the walls, ceilings, and floors, to find specific locations where insulation is missing, and air is leaking. The analyst may also use a nontoxic smoke pencil to detect air leaks in your home. These tests determine the air infiltration rate of your home, which is recorded on a laptop or tablet.
The blower door test is conducted as part of the energy assessment of your home. Your contractor may also operate the blower door while performing air sealing (a method known as blower door assisted air sealing), and after to measure and verify the level of air leakage reduction achieved.
Blower doors consist of a frame and flexible panel that fit in a doorway, a variable-speed fan, a digital pressure gauge to measure the pressure differences inside and outside the home, which are connected to a device for measuring airflow, known as a manometer.
There are two types of blower doors: calibrated and uncalibrated. It is important that auditors use a calibrated door. This type of blower door has several gauges that measure the amount of air flowing out of the house through the fan.
Uncalibrated blower doors can only locate leaks in homes. They provide no method for determining the overall tightness of the home.
The calibrated blower door’s data allow your contractor to quantify the amount of air leakage prior to installation of air-sealing improvements, and the reduction in leakage achieved after air-sealing is completed.
Ready to schedule your Blower Door Test & Duct Leakage Test? Your home energy professional will perform the blower door test, including a walk-through of your home, setting up the blower door, and conducting the test. Call us today to schedule your test today. C: 832-661-6154 E: homereadyinspections@gmail.com
1806 Chippendale Rd. Houston TX, 77018 – Maintaining and Upgrading Existing Duct Systems – City of Houston Duct Leakage Test
Schedule your Duct Leakage Test by the best! We not only preform duct testing on your home, but we troubleshoot if any there’s any problems. Call us today! 832-661-6154 to schedule your home.
119 W 6th St Houston TX, 77007 – City of Houston Blow Door/ Duct Leakage Test – Programmable Thermostat Energy Savers
Programmable Thermostat Operation
You can save as much as 10% a year on heating and cooling by simply turning your programmable thermostat back 7°-10°F for 8 hours a day from its normal setting. The percentage of savings from setback is greater for buildings in milder climates than for those in more severe climates.
The smaller the difference between the indoor and outdoor temperatures, the lower your overall cooling bill will be. You can easily save energy in the winter by setting the thermostat to around 68°F while you’re awake and setting it lower while you’re asleep or away from home. In the summer, you can follow the same strategy with central air conditioning by keeping your house warmer than normal when you are away and setting the thermostat to a setting as high as is comfortable for you when you are at home and need cooling and to ensure humidity control if needed.
Although thermostats can be adjusted manually, programmable thermostats will avoid any discomfort by returning temperatures to normal before you wake or return home.
Avoid setting your thermostat at a colder setting than normal when you turn on your air conditioner. It will not cool your home any faster and could result in excessive cooling and, therefore, unnecessary expense. A common misconception associated with thermostats is that a furnace works harder than normal to warm the space back to a comfortable temperature after the thermostat has been set back, resulting in little or no savings. In fact, as soon as your house drops below its normal temperature, it will lose energy to the surrounding environment more slowly.
During winter, the lower the interior temperature, the slower the heat loss. So, the longer your house remains at the lower temperature, the more energy you save, because your house has lost less energy than it would have at the higher temperature. The same concept applies to raising your thermostat setting in the summer — a higher interior temperature will slow the flow of heat into your house, saving energy on air conditioning. Check out our home heating infographic to learn more about how heating systems and thermostats interact.
For more information, please give us a call or to schedule your final blow door/ duct leakage test.
C: 832-661-6154
4311 Lake wood Dr Missouri City, TX 77459 Foam Insulation Inspection
Need your homes insulation inspected before dry wall?
Types of Foam Insulation
Today, most foam materials use foaming agents that don’t use chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs) or hydrochlorofluorocarbons (HCFCs), which are harmful to the earth’s ozone layer.
There are two types of foam-in-place insulation: closed-cell and open-cell. Both are typically made with polyurethane. With closed-cell foam, the high-density cells are closed and filled with a gas that helps the foam expand to fill the spaces around it. Open-cell foam cells are not as dense and are filled with air, which gives the insulation a spongy texture.
The type of insulation you should choose depends on how you will use it and on your budget. While closed-cell foam has a greater R-value and provides stronger resistance against moisture and air leakage, the material is also much denser and is more expensive. Open-cell foam is lighter and less expensive but should not be used below ground level where it could absorb water. Consult a professional insulation installer to decide what type of insulation is best for you.
Other available foam insulation materials include:
- Cementitious
- Phenolic
- Polyisocyanurate (polyiso)
Some fewer common types include Icynene foam and Tripolymer foam. Icynene foam can be either sprayed or injected, which makes it the most versatile. It also has good resistance to both air and water intrusion. Tripolymer foam—a water-soluble foam—is injected into wall cavities. It has excellent resistance to fire and air intrusion.
well, we’re your guys give us a call 832-661-6154
3811 Neptune, Galveston, TX 77554 – City of Galveston – Manual J
House to humid with the A/C on still above the 50% mark?
The purpose of this research is to develop and validate an integrated humidity and ventilation control solution to improve indoor air quality, comfort, and energy performance for low-load homes in hot-humid and mixed-humid climates. The solution strategy is to coordinate the cooling, dehumidification, and ventilation functions of central HVAC systems to capture energy savings while improving ventilation effectiveness and comfort. This includes re-evaluating the AC systems to optimize dehumidification during part-load conditions (enhanced dehumidification), developing a control strategy to integrate supply-type ventilation prioritized to operate during on-cycles (prioritized ventilation), and developing metrics to quantify system performance including energy savings and cost-effectiveness.
An integrated humidity and ventilation control solution will improve indoor air quality, comfort, and energy performance for low-load homes in hot-humid and mixed-humid climates, simplifying the transition to high-performance ventilation and humidity control systems.
The results of this project will simplify the transition to high-performance ventilation and humidity control systems. By relying on the central system as a starting point, the strategy will allow for optimization across key metrics to a degree that is not possible with alternatives. To enable standardization and broad industry impact, a secondary equipment rating based on latent load efficiency will be proposed.
COMPLETED WORK:
- Conducted house test design reviews of Air Conditioning Contractors of America (ACCA) manual J/S/D with Wrightsoft and HVAC partners
- Developed ventilation protocol with Aprilaire
- Commissioned and instrumented systems at 3 test homes: Houston 1-stage and 2-stage AC, Savannah 1-stage HP
- Developed enhanced dehumidification protocols/controls with Goodman partner
For more information, project presentations, and related publications, visit the Advanced HVAC Humidity Control for Hot-Humid Climates web page.
Make sure you have the proper equipment call 832-661-6154 to schedule a Manual J
3719 Anita Street, Houston TX 77004- City of Houston – Blower Door
What is a Blower Door?
A blower door test is a way to check how air-tight a structure is. It is designed to check for air leaks in walls, attics, and mechanical penetrations. While a blower door test does not evaluate how well a structure is insulated, it can reveal drafty walls and air-bypass situations that could undermine otherwise well insulated wall assemblies. A poorly sealed houses will have higher utility bills, issues with comfort, and potential mold and rot issues caused by moisture. Blower door testing can be carried out on residential homes, commercial structures, and industrial buildings. In some states they are required by code for residential areas. (Always check with your local building codes).
While the blower test is being conducted, the analyst may use an infrared camera to look at the walls, ceilings, and floors, to find specific locations where insulation is missing, and air is leaking. The analyst may also use a nontoxic smoke pencil to detect air leaks in your home. These tests determine the air infiltration rate of your home, which is recorded on a laptop or tablet.
The test is conducted as part of the energy assessment of your home. Your contractor may also operate the blower door while performing air sealing (a method known as blower door assisted air sealing), and after to measure and verify the level of air leakage reduction achieved.
Blower doors consist of a frame and flexible panel that fit in a doorway, a variable-speed fan, a digital pressure gauge to measure the pressure differences inside and outside the home, which are connected to a device for measuring airflow, known as a manometer.
There are two types of blower doors: calibrated and uncalibrated. It is important that auditors use a calibrated door. This type of blower door has several gauges that measure the amount of air flowing out of the house through the fan.
Uncalibrated blower doors can only locate leaks in homes. They provide no method for determining the overall tightness of the home.
The calibrated blower door’s data allow your contractor to quantify the amount of air leakage prior to installation of air-sealing improvements, and the reduction in leakage achieved after air-sealing is completed.
Call TODAY 832-661-6154
Negative House Pressure – 77026 – Detecting Air Leaks
Should your home feel hot or humid check your HVAC duct work.
Visual Inspection
On the outside of your house, inspect all areas where two different building materials meet, including:
- All exterior corners
- Outdoor water faucets
- Where siding and chimneys meet
- Areas where the foundation and the bottom of exterior brick or siding meet.
Inside your home, inspect around the following areas for any cracks and gaps that could cause air leaks:
- Electrical outlets
- Switch plates
- Door and window frames
- Electrical and gas service entrances
- Baseboards
- Weather stripping around doors
- Fireplace dampers
- Attic hatches
- Wall- or window-mounted air conditioners.
- Cable TV and phone lines
- Where dryer vents pass through walls
- Vents and fans.
Also look for gaps around pipes and wires, foundation seals, and mail slots. Check to see if the caulking and weather stripping are applied properly, leaving no gaps or cracks, and are in good condition. Check the exterior caulking around doors and windows and see whether exterior storm doors and primary doors seal tightly.
Inspect windows and doors for air leaks. See if you can rattle them, since movement means possible air leaks. If you can see daylight around a door or window frame, then the door or window leaks. You can usually seal these leaks by caulking or weatherstripping them. Check the storm windows to see if they fit and are not broken.
You may also wish to consider replacing your old windows and doors with newer, high-performance ones. If new factory-made doors or windows are too costly, you can install low-cost plastic sheets over the windows.
Building Pressurization Test
While not as successful as blower door test, if you are having difficulty locating leaks, you may want to conduct a basic building pressurization test to increase infiltration through cracks and leaks, making them easier to detect:
- Turn off all combustion appliances such as gas burning furnaces and water heaters on a cool, very windy day.
- Shut all windows, exterior doors, and fireplace flues.
- Turn on all exhaust fans that blow air outside, such as your clothes dryer, bathroom fans, or stove vents, or use a large window fan to suck the air out of the rooms.
- Light an incense stick and carefully pass it around the edges of common leak sites. Wherever the smoke wavers or is sucked out of or blown into the room, there’s a draft. You can also use a damp hand to locate leaks; any drafts will feel cool to your hand.
If you don’t want to turn off your furnace, you can just turn on all your exhaust fans to depressurize your home.
Other air-leak detection methods include the following:
- Shining flashlight at night over all potential gaps while a partner observes the house from outside. Large cracks will show up as rays of light. Not a good way to detect small cracks.
- Shut a door or window on a dollar bill. If you can pull the dollar bill out without it dragging, you’re losing energy.
Call Miguel 832-661-6154 or Homereadyinspections@gmail.com
2305 Maury St., Houston, TX 77026 – City of Houston Blower Door and Duct Blaster
Control Humidity by Optimizing Fan Speed
Have you ever been in a building that feels cold and clammy at the same time? Or to be more specific, have you experienced what cold and humid conditions feel like? Chances are you have, hopefully not in your current home or work place, however it seems it is more likely than not.
Home energy efficiency is often dominated by discussions about cooling and heating, which account for about 48% of energy costs in the average home. However, when your air has too much moisture, your home may feel warmer than the actual air temperature. Any discussion of energy efficiency, especially in a humid climate, must take moisture control into account.
Did you ever hear someone say the air in your house feels “close?” They’re likely talking about the “feels-like” temperature of the air because the indoor environment is holding a high amount of water vapor, and there’s less evaporation. These factors combine to create a sensation that the room is too warm and there’s less breathable air, despite the temperature reading on the thermostat.
A house with too much humid air in the “building envelope” can have issues with mold and mildew. Moist air can also provide a good environment for bacteria. All are known to adversely affect human health. Excess moisture in the air can take a toll on people, and on furniture, appliances, hardwood floors, carpeting, and, yes, the energy bill—chances are, you are setting your thermostat lower to maintain comfort as you offset the higher amount of humidity you feel in the air.
One solution to moisture control could be a whole-house or portable ENERGY STAR-rated dehumidifier that “wrings” moisture from the air. This is a big commitment that might not be right for everyone. Luckily there are other steps you can take to reduce the amount of moisture in your home.
- Check your clothes dryer. An improperly vented clothes dryer can dump some or all that water from your wet clothes into the air. Make sure your venting system is sealed all the way from the back of your dryer to the exhaust port on your home’s exterior. And be sure to clean the vent regularly, according to the manufacturer’s recommendations.
- Vent your stove and bathroom fans outside. Exhaust fans from cooking surfaces or the bathroom that are vented into your attic only redistribute humidity within your home. All such fans should be vented to the outside, with the system checked for leakage.
- Seal air leaks. Finding the places where outside air is leaking in, and conditioned air is leaking out, and sealing those leaks is a cost-effective way to improve air comfort and cut energy costs. Check your doors and windows for the effectiveness of air seals and caulk or weatherstrip as needed.
- Insulate water pipes. Condensation can occur when there is a difference between the temperature of your water pipes and the humid air in your home. Insulating your water pipes keeps this condensation from occurring on the cold water pipes. This condensation contributes to humidity problems in the home. Insulating hot water pipes eliminates heat loss between the hot water heater and the tap, which means heating and using less water over time. Both will help keep your energy bill in line.
- Monitor drainage around your home. Rainwater and runoff from gutters and downspouts can easily flow toward your foundation and leak or leech into the structure. Directing the water away with landscaping and sealing your foundation can have a big impact on the humidity level in your home, and your energy bill.
We all know the saying, “it’s not the heat, it’s the humidity.” Well, now you know a few new ways to keep the air in your home a little drier, and hopefully a bit more comfortable.
Call Miguel – 832-661-6154
City of Houston Blower Door and Duct Blaster – 77028
Home Ready Inspections offers a variety of residential Inspections. We are an Energy Star Partner, ResNet Provider, IECC Certified, and Home Inspections. Our experience supersedes any Inspection Company that claim to “Certified” homes. Call today for an experience Inspector at 832-661-6154
12206 Mossycup Drive – Duct Blaster
2015 IECC Inspections – 4616 Galesburg St
Call Today 832.661.6154 or 713.370.HEAT
Blower Door and Duct Blaster – 4218 Eigel St
Home Ready Certified Energy Rated Home
Home Ready Inspections Now Offer HERS Ratings at an affordable Price.
A HERS Rating is used to determine whether a home meets an acceptable building quality standard. It also provides useful information which can be used to improve the home’s heating and cooling efficiency and thereby lower its energy usage. HERS ratings can be applied to new or existing single family homes as well as multi-family homes.
Call today 832.661.6154 or 713.370.HEAT
Blower Door and Duct Blaster – 4111 Hardy St
1407 E 33rd St, Houston, Texas 77022
IECC Energy inspection in a ground up project has four aspects: building envelope, mechanical system, electrical power and lighting, and water system. We would like the opportunity to be of service in your commercial building projects. Please feel free to call for any service issues or questions. Home Ready Inspections has the ability to provide same day service. Call today 832.661.6154 or 713.370.HEAT
City of Houston Blower Door and Duct Blaster – 922 Randolph Street, Houston, Texas 77088
1729 Saxon Dr – Blower Door and Duct Blaster
628 E 39th St, Houston, TX 77022 – City of Houston Blower Door and Duct Blaster
City of Houston Blower Door and Blaster – Home Ready Inspections is a full-service residential and commercial inspection company. We specialize in the 2015/2018 IECC inspections and provide the Final Blower Door/Duct Blaster required by the City of Houston and surrounding areas.
Other services offered is Insulation inspections, Energy Analysis (ResCheck or Rating), Manual J and D (HVAC Design), Thermal Inspections, Mechanical Inspections, Electrical Inspections, Plumbing Inspections, and we specialize in troubleshooting high humidity buildings and homes.
Contact us today to schedule or ask questions 832.661.6154
3920 Davenport St, Houston, TX 77051 – City of Houston Blower Door and Duct Blaster
City of Houston Blower Door and Blaster – Home Ready Inspections is a full-service residential and commercial inspection company. We specialize in the 2015/2018 IECC inspections and provide the Final Blower Door/Duct Blaster required by the City of Houston and surrounding areas.
Other services offered are Insulation inspections, Energy Analysis (ResCheck or Rating), Manual J and D (HVAC Design), Thermal Inspections, Mechanical Inspections, Electrical Inspections, Plumbing Inspections, and we specialize in troubleshooting high humidity buildings and homes. Contact us today to schedule or ask questions 832.661.6154
Third Party Blower Door and Duct Blaster – 7704 Nasser, Houston Texas 77055
Blower Door and Duct Blaster
Houston Blower Door and Duct Blaster
City of Houston Blower Door and Blaster – Home Ready Inspections is a full-service residential and commercial inspection company. We specializing in the 2015/2018 IECC inspections and provide the Final Blower Door/Duct Blaster required by the City of Houston and surrounding areas. Other services offered is Insulation inspections, Energy Analysis (ResCheck or Rating), Manual J and D (HVAC Design), Thermal Inspections, Mechanical Inspections, Electrical Inspections, Plumbing Inspections, and we specialize in troubleshooting high humidity buildings and homes. Contact us today to schedule or ask questions 832.661.6154
City of Houston Blower Door and Duct Blaster Test Performed in Huffman Texas
Call today to schedule 832-661-6154.
Blower Door and Duct Test – 9817 Signet St., Houston, TX 77029
The Energy Conservatory – Minneapolis Duct Blaster – Houston, Texas 77021
HRI uses Minneapolis Duct Blaster to perform and diagnose HVAC Duct Leakage. Call us today to schedule or for more information 832-661-6154
Galveston Insulation Inspection –
Galveston now requires a third party inspector to provide an insulation inspection prior to drywall/cover. HRI has work for multiple local builders in Galveston, TX providing such services which includes but not limited to Blower Doors, Duct Blaster, ResCheck, Manual J’s. Hire a professional who can provide all IECC inspections.
733 Tulane St, Houston, TX 77007 – City of Houston Duct Blaster Test
City of Houston now requires a duct leakage and a house leakage test at HVAC final. Call today to schedule 832-661-6154.
Blower Door and Duct Leakage Test – 10806 Warwana Rd, Houston, TX 77043
City of Houston now requires a duct leakage and a house leakage test at HVAC final. Call today to schedule 832-661-6154.
City of Houston – Energy Testing Results (2015 IECC) -4405 Schuler St, Houston, TX 77007
City of Houston Blower Door and Blaster – Home Ready Inspections is a full-service residential and commercial inspection company. We specialize in the 2015/2018 IECC inspections and provide the Final Blower Door/Duct Blaster required by the City of Houston and surrounding areas. Other services offered is Insulation inspections, Energy Analysis (ResCheck or Rating), Manual J and D (HVAC Design), Thermal Inspections, Mechanical Inspections, Electrical Inspections, Plumbing Inspections, and we specialize in troubleshooting high humidity buildings and homes. Contact us today to schedule or ask questions 832.661.6154
2905 Ruth St, Houston, TX 77004 – Duct Test For Remodels and Additions
Today standards require a duct test on all remodels and additions. Call today to schedule your appointments before HVAC final. 832-661-6154
4111 Willet, Galveston, TX 77554 – Blower Door and Duct Blaster Test
Blower Door and Duct Blaster Test – Houston, TX 77087
HRI offers next and same day service. Contact us today 832.661.6154
8705 Bryam, Houston, Texas 77061 – City of Houston Blower Door and Duct Blaster
Call us today to schedule you AC Duct leakage test and final whole house leakage test. 832.661.6154
City of Houston Blower Door and Duct Test – 7607 Dyer St, Houston, TX 77088
City of Houston Blower Door and Duct Test – 7605 Dyer St, Houston, TX 77088
City of Houston Blower Door and Duct Test – 7603 Dyer St, Houston, TX 77088